Weird but wonderful day. We were all a bit demob happy. Our departure was prompt, leaving the Royal Burgh of Tain (home of Glenmorangie Distillery) to hug the coast. However, within minutes of departing we crossed Dornoch Firth via an elongated causeway. We stopped and stopped again, in awe, trying in vain to capture the evanescent water and skyscape. This somehow altered the rhythm of day. Instead of pressing on, groups found reasons to pause for a photo or simply to look or chat.
A very early coffee stop at Poppy's. The owner (man in centre of photo) told me of the unpopularity of Lord Stafford who married the Duchess of Sutherland to inherit the surrounding lands. He was said to be part of the forcible eviction of crofters for 'improvements' to allow more extensive sheep farming. Stafford, now Lord Sutherland, lived at Dunrobin Castle at Golspie.
He built the hillside monument seen in the photo.
For over a century, the locals have wanted to knock it down, including the father of our coffee stop owner. However, the castle and falconry have attracted over 90,000 tourists this summer. Ironically, the dispossession of the locals in the early 19th century has led to shared local wealth in the 21st.
We hugged the east coast passing through names such as Brora, Dalchalm, Lothmore and Culgower.
At Helmsdale, previously known for herring fishing, we stopped for coffee again. Unheard of to do this twice in the morning! We had an 88 mile bike ride to complete. However, a chain broke, others had missed the first coffee and the sun was shining. It was our last full day and we were savouring it.
We turned inland on a very narrow single lane road, punctuated with passing places for the rare vehicle. Bizarrely this lane was rated as the A897. The route headed north along the River Helmsdale through what can only be described as a heavenly realm.
Graduated hills were matted with alternating moorland, pastures and pine forest. Pristine sheep abounded. The river meandered, twisting to and fro, oxbowing it's course to the sea. Sunlight came and went, dappling our vista with deep greens and coppery browns.
We held a final al fresco lunch with van, gazebo and food layer out picnic style. Following a long but gentle climb, leaving Strath Kildonan we descended over the watershed divide and followed the River Halladale which flowed northwards towards our destination. The last of the bright sun departed and most of our afternoon was overcast but dry.
For many of us, it was a late lunch. Still 35 miles to go and although jubilant, most of us were weary and the pace was only modest. By late afternoon we finally emerged back on a busier road and the very north of the country. Wanting it to feel like the end of the world, I was disappointed as the Orkneys were easily within view. However, it certainly had the feel of arriving at the north end of our country and 'the beginning of the end' of our journey.
It's hard for me to describe the intimacy developed by sharing such a trip with 20 other cyclists. We know each other, yet don't.
Even now conversations penetrate deeper, sometimes of previous marriages, problems with children, issues at work. All of us have arrived, thus far, unscathed (27 miles tomorrow via Dunnet Head). Each has raised a substantial amount for charity, greater than £90,000, each organisation representing deep importance for the cyclist.
Tomorrow, we celebrate. But for now, please think of those charities (and give if you want). In no special order:
Mencap
Alzheimer's
I can - the children's communication charity
CF Trust
Adoption UK
British Heart foundation
Brain tumour
Breast Cancer Care
The Clatterbridge Cancer Charity
Calvert Trust (kids with learning difficulties in sport)
Operation mobilisation (Christian-based, supporting ex-untouchables in India)
Zoë's Place, Middlesbrough (children's hospice)
Statistics
Distance: 88.2 miles
Riding time: 6:37
Climbing: 1050m (descending 1027)
Ave speed 13.2 mph (moving speed faster - failure of auto pause!), max speed 35.8 mph
Road kill: hedgehog, buzzard, game bird ?which
High point: sharing the beauty and cameraderie of this trip
Low point: I've never made it to bed before 12:30 am in writing this blog, often later!
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